fine {end}

"thank u, next!"

- Ariana Grande

This week, I returned to the US. After nearly five months abroad in Italy, I have some settling and reflecting to do. This post will be the final entry in this blog – I’ll cover the highlights of the past few weeks and catch you all up to speed.

To everyone who followed my blog throughout the semester – grazie.

To everyone who cheered me on and supported me while I went on this wild adventure – grazie.

And lastly, to everyone I met and taught me something along the way – grazie.

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My final week in Urbino was wrought with exams. I had four in total, and about four-hundred tons of anxiety to take them with. I was so nervous for my first exam, that my hand shook wildly as I wrote my answers on the page. As a result, my usually calm and elegant cursive appeared sloppy and almost illegible (which made me more nervous). Luckily, I think most professors are accustomed to reading hieroglyphic-esque writing from their students. So, regardless of my nerves, I still received high marks on the exam. Whew!

My other finals also went well – I’m proud of the scores I earned, especially since almost everything in my classes this semester was taught in Italian.

After finishing my last exam (and subsequently celebrating with a gelato), I began the slow and painful process of packing everything up and leaving Urbino. I crammed everything into my suitcase, cleaned my dorm room, and then said my goodbyes (the hardest part). I met a remarkable group of people while there, and it was ridiculously difficult to let them go.

Nevertheless, I now have good friends speckled around the globe who I can visit in the future. If I ever find myself in Belgium, France, Germany, Vietnam, or even Ohio, there’s someone I can call for help – and that’s a humbling feeling.

Suitcase packed and goodbyes said, I made my way up to Milan. There, I met my mom (who flew in the previous day from Arizona), and together we began a little vacation around Italy.

Since I’d already been to Milan, I was able to navigate the city with some confidence. We visited the Duomo, the Sforza Castle, and we shared a bowl of My Favorite Pasta Ever (in February, on my first full day in Italy, I ordered a plate of lemon and goat cheese spaghetti at a restaurant near the Duomo – to this day, even after five months in Italy, it is still My Favorite Pasta Ever).

While in Milan, I also got a new pair of Adidas sneakers. This has been a dream of mine for a while. White Adidas shoes seem to be a staple of the Italian wardrobe (along with black pants, black shirts, and Kanken backpacks). So, since my old sneakers were beginning to fall apart, it seemed fitting to buy a new pair of Adidas shoes to commemorate my time in Italy. I feel very cool when I wear them, and I hope that they’ll carry me on countless future adventures.

After Milan, my mom and I took a train to the Cinque Terre. Nestled cozily within the cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, the CT have become popular tourist locations and perhaps one of the most widely photographed places in Italy. As the name implies, there are five separate villages, all about five minutes apart by train. Monterroso rests at the northern end, and Riomaggore (the town where my mom and I stayed) sits at the southern end.

Riomaggore!

On our first full day in the Cinque Terre, my mom and I went on a hike from Monterroso down to Vernazza (the second Terre). We were told that the hike was fairly easy and would only take about two-and-a-half-hours to complete.

Vernazza!

We were lied to.

The first two hours of the hike were almost entirely uphill. We encountered endless stairways, steep inclines, and lots of little bugs. Che schifo! By the time we reached Vernazza (after four hours of hiking through the wilderness), we were exhausted, hungry, and ready to die. We picked up some pasta from a nearby restaurant and rested for the remainder of the day. We also swore to never trust people who say that something will be “easy.”

On our second day in the Cinque Terre, we visited a town called Portovenere. It’s not part of the Cinque chain (it’s about forty minutes south of Riomaggore), but it was an absolute joy to visit. I explored an ancient castle, marveled at the colorful buildings, and worked on my tan. Over lunch, Mom and I sipped Spritz by the seaside, and swooned over the stunning view. To anyone visiting the Cinque Terre – don’t overlook the southern cousin of the Cinque chain. Portovenere is an absolute delight!

Archways at Portovenere

While I was sad to leave the beautiful beachfront views of the Cinque Terre behind, I was also eager to escape the tourist-heavy atmosphere. Packing our bags and waving goodbye to the seagulls, my mom and I took a train to a quiet Tuscan town called Lucca.

Situated somewhere between Pisa and Florence, this walled city is a quiet marvel. It’s perhaps not as famous as its neighbors, but that lends the city an authentic and quirky charm. Besides, who needs fame when you have views like that? ---------------------------->

On our first day in Lucca, I rented a bike and did some exploring. Like many historic Italian towns, Lucca has a wall that encapsulates the heart of the city. However, perhaps unlike other places, Lucca’s wall has been refurbished as pedestrian walkway. Lined with trees, park benches, and even a restaurant, the wall is so much more than just a barrier from the outer world. It’s a brilliant stroke of urban planning, and I applaud Lucca for finding a functional and fun use for their historic wall.

With my bike, I followed the wall’s pathway around the city. It was a great way to “see” Lucca without actually entering it. Sometimes crazy drivers and narrow streets can make bicycling in Italy a little perilous, but I felt safe on top of the wall.

The following day, I climbed to the top of Torre Guinigi, a popular landmark in Lucca. Built in the 1380s, the stunning brick tower is topped with a crown of holm oak trees – it kinda looks like a funny haircut. Although visitors have to climb 230 steps to the top, the view from up there is absolutely amazing.

From Lucca, my mom and I rented a car to drive around the Tuscan countryside. We stayed on a farm for several days and enjoyed the slow pace of the Chianti hills. Agriturismo has grown increasingly popular in the region – instead of staying in a hotel, visitors can choose to stay in old farmhouses and enjoy the more rustic side of Tuscany. The place we stayed at produced organic olive oil and Chianti, and they had a pool in the backyard. Our amazing hosts gifted us a full bottle of wine when we arrived, and they offered us tips for visiting Florence and Siena (which were only an hour away from the farm by car). I really enjoyed staying in rural Tuscany – it was a welcome break from the hustle of Milan and the crowds of the Cinque Terre.

Sometimes you need a vacation from your vacation.

After a full day of quiet rest at the farm, my mom and I took a day trip to Florence, or if you like, Firenze. We wandered the busy streets, visited the Boboli Gardens (which continue to be one of my favorite places on earth), and went to the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (the oldest perfumery in the city). My mom went to the Uffizi Gallery while I did some shopping around town. By 4pm, we were absolutely exhausted and ready to return to our quiet agriturismo haven.

The following day, we drove down to Siena. I was excited to see this historic hilltop town, especially because I’d learned so much about it in school.

The emblem of Torre - an elephant with a tower on its back

In my Italian language course last year, we did a project about the contrade (neighborhoods) of Siena. Each student in the class was assigned a different contrada to research and to create a presentation for. I was given Torre (the Tower).

In total, Siena has 17 different contrade, but obviously Torre is the best.

Twice a year, the contrade face-off in a momentous horse race called the Palio. The central piazza is transformed into a running track, and the competing contrade must bring their best racers forward. There’s a lot more to this event, but I won’t go into it all. If you’re curious, this website does a great job of explaining exactly what happens.

So, after learning so much about Torre, it was exciting to actually see the neighborhood and the culture surrounding the Palio. I bought a little Torre flag to show my allegiance, and hold onto as a keepsake.

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After our tour of Tuscany, my mom and I left the quiet countryside for the rush of one of the most famous cities on earth: Rome.

With a blend of ancient and new, Rome is a stunning juxtaposition. Modern cars zip past the Colosseum, the latest iPhone cameras capture Trevi fountain in the blink of an eye, and advertisements for H&M hang majestically from 15th-century building windows. It’s a lot to take in.

My mom and I were only there for two days – we managed to see several important landmarks, but it would take several lifetimes to fully see Rome in all her glory. We threw coins into Trevi Fountain, climbed the Spanish Steps, and tried basil-flavored gelato from this place (the variety at Baskin Robin’s seems laughably small in comparison). We tried to visit Vatican City, but the entrance line was ridiculously long. With so much to see in Rome, we decided to skip the line and visit other landmarks instead.

Unfortunately, we ran into a bit of trouble while taking a tram from the Trastevere neighborhood (across the Tiber River) to the Colosseum. Unable to locate a place to buy a ticket, we decided to wing-it and hopped on the tram for free.

Fools we were.

After a few stops, several transit officers boarded the tram and blocked the exits. They asked everyone to show their tickets, and when we showed our empty hands, we got into big trouble. The officers fined us €54. A tram ticket only costs €1.50.

But isn’t that the stuff of adventure? Hitting a few bumps, getting into a little trouble, making a few mistakes? Instead of coming home with just pictures and some souvenirs, we can come home with stories and tales of our successes and blunders.

Now I know better than to board a tram without buying a ticket.

Now I know that running with friends is sometimes better than running alone.

Now I know that I’m rubbish at basketball, but surprisingly good at volleyball.

Now I know how to make coffee in a moka.

Now I know how to carry a conversation in Italian.

Now I know how fearless I can be.

In coming home this week, I realized how much things have changed since I left . . . or really, how much I’ve changed since I left. I’m grateful for what this adventure abroad taught me, and I’m excited to continue learning on future adventures.

I’m not really sure what the next chapter will be, but I’ll never forget my semester in Italy.

And on that note, I’ll end this blog in the same place where it began:

Grazie.

Grazie, grazie, grazie.

conto alla rovescia {countdown}

"Time makes you bolder

Children get older

I'm getting older, too."

- "Landslide," Fleetwood Mac

With only 5 weeks remaining in Italy, I thought that it would be appropriate to format this post like a countdown.

The following five points highlight the top five things/events that have occurred over the past couple weeks. Of course, there are numerous other marvelous experiences that aren’t listed below, but these seemed like the most noteworthy:

#5 – La Biblioteca

La Biblioteca -- shhhhh!

Last week, my roommates brought me to Carlo Bo’s central library. I’d been to other libraries and reading rooms in Urbino -- the campus is scattered with study areas – but I’d never been able to find the central biblioteca. To be fair, it isn’t widely advertised, and it isn’t in an obvious location. In fact, from the street, you can’t even see it – the structure is embedded within another building, and there aren’t any obvious signs.

But, despite its “Where’s Waldo-esque” location, the central library is exceptionally charming. And quiet.

. . . Perhaps because nobody knows that it’s there.

The main room of the library features floor-to-ceiling bookcases, large windows to let in natural light, and a muggy, bookish musk that would make any bibliophile swoon. It is, in essence, the perfect spot to study for hours and completely forget about the outside world. With final exams approaching, it’s become one of my favorite spots in Urbino.

#4 – Pioggia

A few weeks ago, I created a post about the rain – It was amazing to me, as a native Arizonian, to experience so much precipitation over such an extended period of time. In fact, it was amazing to experience any kind of precipitation at all. In the desert, rainy days are few and far between.

But here, in Urbino . . . Well.

It’s rained almost every. single. day. for. two. weeks.

It’s also surprisingly cold! I packed two pairs of shorts when I left Arizona, but I’ve only worn one of them once. It’s May. And I still have to wear a coat and boots when I leave the apartment. Where or where is my steamy Italian summer weather??? I want to walk around the main piazza in a sun dress and a gelato in my hand!

Perhaps things will start warming up soon -- I have some time left to enjoy the Mediterranean climate, and I hope that I’ll be able to wear my shorts at least a few more times!

#3 – Street Food

This past weekend, Urbino hosted a street food festival just outside the town walls. Various colorful and brightly lit tents sprung up from a normally empty parking lot and drew people in with enticing smells. A few friends and I voyaged to the event, just to check it out. In addition to having a crepe stand, a margarita stand, and a place that sold fried olive balls, the festival featured one booth with American-style beer. Although I didn’t order anything there, I got a kick out of the USA-inspired decorations, and it was nice to see a piece of home here in Italy.

For dinner, I found a place that sold grilled, vegetarian sandwiches (panini). Yum!

I also treated myself to a glass of Czech-style beer. Mňam!

Although the festival is over now, I’m glad that I got to experience it. Sometimes the general pace of Urbino a is little slow – it’s a small town in the heart of the Marche Region – so, we don’t see much excitement. Sometimes this is an asset – especially with finals coming! No distractions here! But, even hard-core studiers need a break from the books every once-in-a-while. And what better way to do that than to enjoy some traditional Czech beer?

#2 – Running

Every week for the past month, I’ve gone out running with my friend, Cuong, who’s from Vietnam. We meet at 7 – 7:30 in the morning, and then we hit the road, rain or shine.

Me, feeling pumped before the half-marathon!

I’ve been running for around two years – I even completed a half-marathon this past January. Cuong wants to participate in a 5K when he returns home, so he enlisted me to help him train. We average around 3 ½ miles each time, so he should be able to finish his race without a sweat!

The hardest part about running is the mental strain. Sure, your legs and knees get tired, your lungs feel like they might explode . . . but maintaining a sense of motivation? That’s that hard part. When I ran the half-marathon, I was ready to collapse and die by mile 11. But, as I got closer to the finish line, there were more and more people cheering from the sidelines. People who were there to support their friends or family members – people I didn’t even know – people who wanted to see me succeed, even though they didn’t know me either.

When the finish line was in sight, I blasted into a full sprint. Although my legs were on fire, my knees were screaming, and my lungs were ready to pass out, the cheers from the crowd gave me an extra jolt of energy! It was like running into one of those star things in Mario Cart. Suddenly, super-speed was my only speed. I felt like a lightning bolt or something.

In previous weeks, when I was preparing for the half-marathon, I could finish 10 miles in about 2 hours. So, I figured that it would take me close to 2 ½ or even 3 hours to complete the dreaded 13 mile-race.

However, on the actual race day, I passed the finish line in 2 hours, 23 minutes, and 4 seconds – completely shattering any expectations that I had for myself.

I think having people cheer me on helped. I think being surrounded by other suffering runners helped. I think the excitement of the moment propelled me onward, and I was able to physically achieve something that my mind told me wasn’t possible.

So, this all goes to explain how, by running with Cuong, I’m finding that running is actually – dare I say? – fun???? Having a buddy to jog with and talk to makes the miles melt away. Instead of a cheering crowd at just the finish line, instead I have someone to cheer me on during the entire run.

I wish Cuong the best of luck with his 5K! He’s already running much further and faster than me when I first started out two years ago. Kudos to him!

#1 - Pesaro

The past two Thursdays, I’ve taken little day-trips to Pesaro. After a full week of studying and taking notes, I allow myself a relaxing afternoon to mess around in my favorite sea-side Italian town. Only an hour away from Urbino, Pesaro is the perfect escape. It has an extensive beach, miles of bike paths, and some of the best gelato around.

Last Thursday, I rented a bike from Pesaro Bici for only 10 euros. Since the rental was for the whole day, I took my time and did some serious exploring. I rode all the way down from Pesaro to its southern neighbor, Fano. The trip took about an hour each way, but the scenery was spectacular, so I didn’t even notice the time. There’s a great pathway that connects the two towns, so I wasn’t worried about cars or trucks rumbling by. I listened to some music, took in the sun, and forgot about my final exams for a while.

I’d never been to Fano before, so it was a treat to visit! It’s a walled town – like Urbino – and it’s close to the sea – like Pesaro. Best of both, I guess! I think maybe it was a holiday or something there, because the streets were almost empty, and it was so quiet that I hoped off my bike and tip-toed around for a bit. I didn’t stick around for too long because nothing was open -- but it was nice to at least visit.

When I returned to Pesaro, I got myself some strawberry-lemon-coconut gelato, and then I rested in the shade for a bit. Adventuring (especially on a bike) is hard work!

I’m planning to visit Pesaro again later this week. Hopefully on a day when it’s not raining!

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Well, that brings us to the end of the countdown. Things have slowed down a lot the past few weeks, but I'm enjoying the simple, everyday pace of rural Italy. The following month will bring finals, more travel, and hopefully more gelato! I'll keep you updated, and thank you for reading!

sperare {to hope}

“Hold onto hope if you’ve got it

Don’t let it go for nobody

They say that dreaming is free

But I wouldn’t care what it cost me”

- “26,” Paramore

After an eventful Spring Break in Florence, the past week has been comparatively quiet.

On Tuesday, I had my last class of the semester (and, by extension, of my undergraduate degree – whoop!). Final exams begin on June 3rd, so I have a full month to prepare. Between now and then, I have absolutely no plans whatsoever . . . except to study and maybe go on a few picnics.

With no classes to attend, I’ve tried to add some structure to my everyday routine. I like to go running in the morning, and then I study for a couple hours with a huge cup of American-style coffee (espresso just doesn’t cut it).

I’m nervous about the upcoming exams, especially since the finals often count for the entire course grade. In the US, students usually complete various projects or assignments for a percentage of their final grade. It’s possible to fail the final exam and still pass the course. However, in Italy, professors don’t usually give assignments or homework. Student just have to study really, really hard, and hope that they do well on the final exam. Essentially, a “B” on the exam would be a “B” in the class.

For someone who’s accustomed to having ample opportunities to prove herself, this “Hail-Mary” approach is absolutely terrifying. It’s the final quarter, the clock is ticking, she tosses the ball and it spins through the air across the field, the crowd holds its breath . . .

I’m hoping for a touchdown here, but I’m studying like crazy just in case. The Italian grading scale is very unforgiving – to earn an “A,” I need to score either a 29 or a 30 on my exams.

And the scale is out of 30 points.

So, basically, I’m studying like crazy an absolute maniac. The gigantic American-style coffee really helps here. Espresso just doesn’t cut it -- I don’t care how cute it is.

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But, it wouldn’t be fair to just study all the time. I’ve also had some fun this week!

On Friday, I went to my friend’s 20th birthday party -- a few of us got together, played games, and then enjoyed some cake (which I helped to decorate!).

There’s a lot of hope in birthdays, I think. As we blow out the candles, we hope for another successful year. We hope that time has made us wiser, and we hope that we can fight through the challenges ahead.

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In addition to celebrating a little, I also helped the planet this week. Yesterday, I went to Pesaro with a group of other study abroad students and helped to clean up the beach. We picked up litter and other bits of trash that were lodged in the sand. We found lots of cigarette butts, a wine bottle, and some abandoned lounge chairs. All obvious signs that we were in Italy.

Before heading back to Urbino, we played a few rounds of beach volleyball. Thankfully, my volleyball skills are much better than my basketball skills, so I didn’t embarrass myself too much.

The whole event was coordinated by ESN, a program that helps Erasmus and other foreign students connect with their communities. Although I am an incorrigible introvert, the trip was a great opportunity to meet new people. On the ride back to the university, I shared a car with a Russian, a Spaniard, an Italian, and a French person. That doesn’t happen every day, so I felt very lucky to be there!

And, of course, cleaning the beach gave me a small sense of hope. Sometimes it seems like our planet has so many problems and that things are just getting worse. With sea-level rise, droughts, record-breaking temperatures, and a plethora of other horrifying disasters . . . it’s easy to feel a little overwhelmed – a little out of control. So, it was nice to take matters into my own hands yesterday (even if it was just in a small way), and to do something nice for the planet.

I think that hope revolves around possibility – the possibility that good things will happen, that we’ll be stronger, that life will be better. Of course, things don’t always go as we hope, but sometimes that’s okay. We can usually try again and hope that things will go better next time.