"thank u, next!"
- Ariana Grande
This week, I returned to the US. After nearly five months abroad in Italy, I have some settling and reflecting to do. This post will be the final entry in this blog – I’ll cover the highlights of the past few weeks and catch you all up to speed.
To everyone who followed my blog throughout the semester – grazie.
To everyone who cheered me on and supported me while I went on this wild adventure – grazie.
And lastly, to everyone I met and taught me something along the way – grazie.
My final week in Urbino was wrought with exams. I had four in total, and about four-hundred tons of anxiety to take them with. I was so nervous for my first exam, that my hand shook wildly as I wrote my answers on the page. As a result, my usually calm and elegant cursive appeared sloppy and almost illegible (which made me more nervous). Luckily, I think most professors are accustomed to reading hieroglyphic-esque writing from their students. So, regardless of my nerves, I still received high marks on the exam. Whew!
My other finals also went well – I’m proud of the scores I earned, especially since almost everything in my classes this semester was taught in Italian.
After finishing my last exam (and subsequently celebrating with a gelato), I began the slow and painful process of packing everything up and leaving Urbino. I crammed everything into my suitcase, cleaned my dorm room, and then said my goodbyes (the hardest part). I met a remarkable group of people while there, and it was ridiculously difficult to let them go.
Nevertheless, I now have good friends speckled around the globe who I can visit in the future. If I ever find myself in Belgium, France, Germany, Vietnam, or even Ohio, there’s someone I can call for help – and that’s a humbling feeling.
Suitcase packed and goodbyes said, I made my way up to Milan. There, I met my mom (who flew in the previous day from Arizona), and together we began a little vacation around Italy.
Since I’d already been to Milan, I was able to navigate the city with some confidence. We visited the Duomo, the Sforza Castle, and we shared a bowl of My Favorite Pasta Ever (in February, on my first full day in Italy, I ordered a plate of lemon and goat cheese spaghetti at a restaurant near the Duomo – to this day, even after five months in Italy, it is still My Favorite Pasta Ever).
While in Milan, I also got a new pair of Adidas sneakers. This has been a dream of mine for a while. White Adidas shoes seem to be a staple of the Italian wardrobe (along with black pants, black shirts, and Kanken backpacks). So, since my old sneakers were beginning to fall apart, it seemed fitting to buy a new pair of Adidas shoes to commemorate my time in Italy. I feel very cool when I wear them, and I hope that they’ll carry me on countless future adventures.
After Milan, my mom and I took a train to the Cinque Terre. Nestled cozily within the cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, the CT have become popular tourist locations and perhaps one of the most widely photographed places in Italy. As the name implies, there are five separate villages, all about five minutes apart by train. Monterroso rests at the northern end, and Riomaggore (the town where my mom and I stayed) sits at the southern end.
On our first full day in the Cinque Terre, my mom and I went on a hike from Monterroso down to Vernazza (the second Terre). We were told that the hike was fairly easy and would only take about two-and-a-half-hours to complete.
We were lied to.
The first two hours of the hike were almost entirely uphill. We encountered endless stairways, steep inclines, and lots of little bugs. Che schifo! By the time we reached Vernazza (after four hours of hiking through the wilderness), we were exhausted, hungry, and ready to die. We picked up some pasta from a nearby restaurant and rested for the remainder of the day. We also swore to never trust people who say that something will be “easy.”
On our second day in the Cinque Terre, we visited a town called Portovenere. It’s not part of the Cinque chain (it’s about forty minutes south of Riomaggore), but it was an absolute joy to visit. I explored an ancient castle, marveled at the colorful buildings, and worked on my tan. Over lunch, Mom and I sipped Spritz by the seaside, and swooned over the stunning view. To anyone visiting the Cinque Terre – don’t overlook the southern cousin of the Cinque chain. Portovenere is an absolute delight!
While I was sad to leave the beautiful beachfront views of the Cinque Terre behind, I was also eager to escape the tourist-heavy atmosphere. Packing our bags and waving goodbye to the seagulls, my mom and I took a train to a quiet Tuscan town called Lucca.
Situated somewhere between Pisa and Florence, this walled city is a quiet marvel. It’s perhaps not as famous as its neighbors, but that lends the city an authentic and quirky charm. Besides, who needs fame when you have views like that? ---------------------------->
On our first day in Lucca, I rented a bike and did some exploring. Like many historic Italian towns, Lucca has a wall that encapsulates the heart of the city. However, perhaps unlike other places, Lucca’s wall has been refurbished as pedestrian walkway. Lined with trees, park benches, and even a restaurant, the wall is so much more than just a barrier from the outer world. It’s a brilliant stroke of urban planning, and I applaud Lucca for finding a functional and fun use for their historic wall.
With my bike, I followed the wall’s pathway around the city. It was a great way to “see” Lucca without actually entering it. Sometimes crazy drivers and narrow streets can make bicycling in Italy a little perilous, but I felt safe on top of the wall.
The following day, I climbed to the top of Torre Guinigi, a popular landmark in Lucca. Built in the 1380s, the stunning brick tower is topped with a crown of holm oak trees – it kinda looks like a funny haircut. Although visitors have to climb 230 steps to the top, the view from up there is absolutely amazing.
From Lucca, my mom and I rented a car to drive around the Tuscan countryside. We stayed on a farm for several days and enjoyed the slow pace of the Chianti hills. Agriturismo has grown increasingly popular in the region – instead of staying in a hotel, visitors can choose to stay in old farmhouses and enjoy the more rustic side of Tuscany. The place we stayed at produced organic olive oil and Chianti, and they had a pool in the backyard. Our amazing hosts gifted us a full bottle of wine when we arrived, and they offered us tips for visiting Florence and Siena (which were only an hour away from the farm by car). I really enjoyed staying in rural Tuscany – it was a welcome break from the hustle of Milan and the crowds of the Cinque Terre.
Sometimes you need a vacation from your vacation.
After a full day of quiet rest at the farm, my mom and I took a day trip to Florence, or if you like, Firenze. We wandered the busy streets, visited the Boboli Gardens (which continue to be one of my favorite places on earth), and went to the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (the oldest perfumery in the city). My mom went to the Uffizi Gallery while I did some shopping around town. By 4pm, we were absolutely exhausted and ready to return to our quiet agriturismo haven.
The following day, we drove down to Siena. I was excited to see this historic hilltop town, especially because I’d learned so much about it in school.
In my Italian language course last year, we did a project about the contrade (neighborhoods) of Siena. Each student in the class was assigned a different contrada to research and to create a presentation for. I was given Torre (the Tower).
In total, Siena has 17 different contrade, but obviously Torre is the best.
Twice a year, the contrade face-off in a momentous horse race called the Palio. The central piazza is transformed into a running track, and the competing contrade must bring their best racers forward. There’s a lot more to this event, but I won’t go into it all. If you’re curious, this website does a great job of explaining exactly what happens.
So, after learning so much about Torre, it was exciting to actually see the neighborhood and the culture surrounding the Palio. I bought a little Torre flag to show my allegiance, and hold onto as a keepsake.
After our tour of Tuscany, my mom and I left the quiet countryside for the rush of one of the most famous cities on earth: Rome.
With a blend of ancient and new, Rome is a stunning juxtaposition. Modern cars zip past the Colosseum, the latest iPhone cameras capture Trevi fountain in the blink of an eye, and advertisements for H&M hang majestically from 15th-century building windows. It’s a lot to take in.
My mom and I were only there for two days – we managed to see several important landmarks, but it would take several lifetimes to fully see Rome in all her glory. We threw coins into Trevi Fountain, climbed the Spanish Steps, and tried basil-flavored gelato from this place (the variety at Baskin Robin’s seems laughably small in comparison). We tried to visit Vatican City, but the entrance line was ridiculously long. With so much to see in Rome, we decided to skip the line and visit other landmarks instead.
Unfortunately, we ran into a bit of trouble while taking a tram from the Trastevere neighborhood (across the Tiber River) to the Colosseum. Unable to locate a place to buy a ticket, we decided to wing-it and hopped on the tram for free.
Fools we were.
After a few stops, several transit officers boarded the tram and blocked the exits. They asked everyone to show their tickets, and when we showed our empty hands, we got into big trouble. The officers fined us €54. A tram ticket only costs €1.50.
But isn’t that the stuff of adventure? Hitting a few bumps, getting into a little trouble, making a few mistakes? Instead of coming home with just pictures and some souvenirs, we can come home with stories and tales of our successes and blunders.
Now I know better than to board a tram without buying a ticket.
Now I know that running with friends is sometimes better than running alone.
Now I know that I’m rubbish at basketball, but surprisingly good at volleyball.
Now I know how to make coffee in a moka.
Now I know how to carry a conversation in Italian.
Now I know how fearless I can be.
In coming home this week, I realized how much things have changed since I left . . . or really, how much I’ve changed since I left. I’m grateful for what this adventure abroad taught me, and I’m excited to continue learning on future adventures.
I’m not really sure what the next chapter will be, but I’ll never forget my semester in Italy.
And on that note, I’ll end this blog in the same place where it began:
Grazie.
Grazie, grazie, grazie.
